La Maison Picassiette, Chartres.

On Saturday morning I awoke with a "sense of possibility" and decided to treat myself with a day trip to Chartres, mainly for the iconic cathedral. I stumbled across this adorable little house in Chartres on Internet, and so ... I'm off on an adventure! Raymond Isidore began to build his house in Chartres in 1930 and systematically (over a period of decades) covered everything with intricate mosaics of broken crockery, painting and sculpture. For this reason,  he earned a nickname as "Picassiette", derived from 'pique' in French (to steal) and 'assiette' (plate). The intimate, idiosyncratic and very personal nature of this man's obsession presents a sharp contrast to the 'majestic' Chartres cathedral.

Gustave Moreau Museum.

Gustave Moreau was a French Symbolist painter whose main emphasis was biblical and mythological figures.  The Gustave Moreau Museum houses more than 1000 paintings by the artist, as well as 7000 drawings. I was extremely surprised by the range of his work as well as the vast collection of the museum! His mythological and spiritual paintings gleam with a jewel - like perfection. Yet, his numerous 'unfinished' works show a Rembrandt - like under drawing facility that is quite expressive! When it comes to painting he was quite the alchemist. His own students include Henry Matisse  and Georges Rouault.  Andre Bretton famously used to "haunt" the museum and regarded Moreau as a precursor of Surrealism.

Musée Gustave Moreau Art Nouveau staircase.

I finally made it to Musée Gustave Moreau today! The symbolist painter is known for his mythological fantasies and jewel - like painting. His 'town house' (don't make them like that any more...) has the most magnificent Art Nouveau staircase I have ever seen! The major surprise to me, however, is the vast collection of more than 1000 oils, watercolours and 7000 drawings in the museum. The house itself is decorated with visual excess and an idiosyncratic sense for the exotic. I will make the effort again to come to this museum on my next visit to Paris!

Pierre et Gilles and tapestries at La Manufacture des Gobelins.

During recent research on contemporary Paris art exhibitions, I stumbled upon a Pierre et Gilles installation at Galerie des Gobelins. Being totally in touch with my kitsch side.., I decided this is certainly worth a visit. Little did I know that the gallery is located at La Manufacture des Gobelins, a tapestry factory since the early 17th century! Originally a dyeing workshop set up in about 1440, Louis XIV took it over in 1662 and gathered the greatest craftsman of the day, including Flemish weavers to create works for his palace at Versailles. Today weavers still continue to work in the traditional way but with modern designs. If you are interested in 17th and 18th century tapestries and want to engage closely with them and visit the fascinating factory space where they were created, this is the place to go! Another hidden gem and what a rich, fantastic history!

Mozart's Requiem in the Notre Dame!

I am a firm believer in the power of speech spoken aloud, and how this impacts on the direction of our mind and the evolution of our life! Less than 6 months ago I mentioned to my Saturday art class that I would love to see Mozart's Requiem performed in a large cathedral one day. It is my favorite by far!  Well well ... that day has arrived! Mozart's Requiem will be performed tonight in the Notre Dame and I have my ticket in my hand! This will surely be a divine and life changing experience. Feeling blessed...

Epic Monet exhibition at Musée Marmottan!

Musée Marmottan is simply a hidden gem! It contains the biggest collection of Monet paintings in the world, yet the museum does not nearly receive the same attention than Musée D'Orsay or L'Orangerie for instance. The exhibition "Impression, Sunrise" celebrates the true story of the masterpiece by Monet. As part of the 80th anniversary of the opening of the Musée Marmottan and of the 140th anniversary since the first exhibition of the work "Impression , Sunrise", the exhibition presents 94  paintings, 29 drawings and other personal objects belonging to Monet. There is also a permanent collection featuring numerous works by Berthe Morisot, Degas and Manet  to name but a few. The area ('Passy' close to La Muette Metro) is also very sophisticated and quiet. Would defenately like to stay here on future visits to Paris to escape the city noise at night!

Oscar Muñoz at Galerie National du Jeu de Paume (part 2).

Galerie National du Jeu de Paume is hosting a retrospective of the work by the Columbian artist Oscar Muñoz. His works blur the boundaries between photography, printmaking, drawing, installation, video and sculpture. Through his innovative processes such as printing charcoal pigment on water and silkscreen(ed) charcoal dust on methacrylate he creates unstable images that oscillate between presence and absence. "Narcissi in process" illustrated above, is a set of self - portraits printed in charcoal pigment on water in shallow vitrines lined with paper. The water slowly evaporates during the course of the exhibition, eventually allowing the pigment to settle onto the paper in a slightly altered version of the original portrait image.

Oscar Muñoz at Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume (part 1).

Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume is hosting a retrospective of the work of Columbian artist Oscar Muñoz. Having achieved international renown as an exceptional draughtsman, in the 1980s Muñoz gradually abandoned paper as a support and experimented with new techniques of drawing and printmaking. Muñoz is known for his use of ephemeral materials, in poetic reflections upon memory and mortality. His video "Re/trato" shows the artist futile attempt to paint a self - portrait with water on a hot pavement. "Intervalos (mientras respiro)" illustrated above, are self - portraits made by Muñoz  using a cigarette to 'draw' while he smokes. The action of puffing on the cigarette increases the heat from which the image will be made, giving life to it, while the body breathing in the smoke comes one step closer to death. Extremely thought provoking, multi-layered and innovative!

Cité de l'Architecture et du Partimone.

This was undoubtedly my 'surprise discovery' of my whole stay in Paris so far! I am an avid admirer of Gothic architecture and somehow missed the 'Cité de l'Architecture et du Partimone' on previous visits to Paris. I firmly believe that most guide books do not give this museum of French architectural achievements the credit it deserves. The museum allows the visitor the opportunity to view the rich architectural heritage of France from the Middle Age's to the present day, in less than half a day! The museum is located opposite the Eiffel Tower and comprises 8000 m2 of exhibition space with life - size reproductions of the doorways of Chartres and Strasbourg cathedrals (to name but a few) and a full scale apartment of Le Corbusier's 'Cité redieuse'. If you enjoy architecture and have a short stay in Paris that does not allow you to visit all these historic monuments scattered throughout France, head for Cité de l'Architecture et du Partimone for a surprisingly invigorating experience! The best part...no trampling crowds...

"Mapplethorpe / Rodin" exhibition at Musée Rodin.

"Mapplethorpe / Rodin" exhibition in Paris is on from 8 April - 21 September. The exhibition brings together 50 sculptures by Rodin and 102 photographs by Mapplethorpe at the Musée Rodin, exploring unexpected dialogues between movement and tension, light and shadow, and eroticism and damnation. Some exceptional juxtapositions!

Musée Rodin.

I have postponed this experience for quite some time. Somehow in al my trips to Paris I never got to the Musée Rodin. I guess one is always pressed for time and have other priorities. Moreover, part of me always wants to have something to look forward to. I was surprised by the relaxing experience of the museum and it's beautiful gardens. Somehow Rodin's sculpture comes alive in the setting of the elegant gardens of Hotel Biron. Rodin lived here from 1908 - 1917 and in return for a state-owned flat and studio, left his work to the nation. What an awesome experience and perfect day in Paris! This comes highly recommended, especially if one wants to retreat from the hectic city experience for some much needed 'breathing space'. Best part...you can take photographs! I did not disappoint...

Victor Hugo Museum, Chinese room.

Victor Hugo is probably best known outside of France for his acclaimed "Les Misérables" and the "Hunchback of Notre-Dame". During a visit to the Victor Hugo museum, I was quite surprised to see the whole scope of this man's talent! Apart from producing more than 4000 drawings (mostly monochrome and in the Romantic tradition) his house is a jumble of styles. The main bedroom is a Baroque red chamber with tapestries on the ceiling and a desk where he wrote a lot of his master pieces, standing up. Some other highlights include an oriental blue chamber, a bust by Rodin depicting Victor Hugo and a most impressive Chinese room depicted above! This room certainly proves that "less can be a bore... more is more" ;-)

Dries Van Noten, exhibition at the Museum of Decorative Arts.

Well known Belgium fashion designer Dries Van Noten was invited by the Museum of Decorative Arts, Paris to showcase his creative world and explore the collections of the Fashion and Textile Museum in Paris. What I found particularly effective is the way he reveals his creative process which he illustrates with his diverse sources of inspiration ranging from contemporary visual art to French embroidery to Orientalism, to name but a few. The 'context' is printed in the form of wallpaper behind each range, as well as on the floors of the exhibition space. The show also include artworks by well known artists including Thierry de Cordier, Gerhard Richter, Damien Hirst,  Francis Bacon,  Elizabeth Peyton and Bronzino, all whom have triggered the designer's imagination throughout his life and career. Amita and myself entered the exhibition yesterday morning through the 'exit door', hence not seeing the 'no photography' sign. Well well... Proving ignorance is indeed bliss darling! Explosive and exceptional exhibition!

Mucha's Belle Epoque jewellery shop at the Musée Carnavalet.

The interior and exterior of this jewellery shop were specifically designed in 1901 by the Czech artist Alphonse Mucha for the jeweler Georges Fouquet. It is a spectacular example of Belle Epoque (Art Nouveau) and certainly one of the most sophisticated spaces I have seen in my life. Check out the jewellery display cabinets! Nina...This one is for you...

Paris 70 years of liberation celebrations in full swing.

Parisians were out in full force yesterday to celebrate 70 years of liberation in a sunny Paris. The city had a palpable energy on every street! Her code was 'Rainer' and she had a gun called 'Oscar'. Not yet 20 a young female medical student on a bicycle took up a gun, aimed at a Nazi officer and shot him dead on a Paris bridge on a Sunday afternoon. That deed on July 23, 1944, was Madeleine Riffaud's summons to Parisians to rise up against the oppressor.

Henrique Oliveira at Palais de Tokyo.

Brazilian artist Henrique Oliveira is currently exhibiting his exceptional 'Baitogogo' installation at Palais de Tokyo. This matrix of branches or roots unravels and twists from existing pillars and beams. The artist uses reclaimed wood consisting mainly of Tapume wood retrieved from the streets of São Paulo to create references of his Brazilian culture and identity. I just love the poetic interaction  between the architectural and organic/natural forms!

Art Deco room with silver leaf, Museum Carnavalet.

Another 'hidden gem' in Paris! In the free Museum Carnavalet there is one Art Deco ballroom completely covered with hand painted silver leaf. It was done by using 'transparent' oil glazes on top of the silver leaf. The whole space is lacquered and shiny. The painted subject matter definitely shows a penchant for exoticism. The clock is to die for... What I wouldn't give!

Museum Cluny ' s Medieval Collection. WOW!!!

Museum Cluny (also referred to as the "Moyen Age's collection" is one of the lesser visited museums in Paris, but a certain 'knock out'! I am beyond impressed!!! The museum has one of the largest and most important Medieval collections in the world. The museum is mostly known for it's "Lady of with the Unicorn" tapestries which consists of 6 large scaled tapestries done in the late 15th century and are valued for their harmonious colours, poetic elegance and are an allegory of the senses (sight, hearing, taste, smell, and touch). Amita was in heaven... Certainly worth another visit! Thank you Claudio D'Ogistini for your recommendation! 

Monet at L'Orangerie.

This is a close - up of one of Monet's famous water lilies curved panels in L'Orangerie! They are spectacular due to their physical size, ethereal quality and vibrant colours, but defenately need to be appreciated from a distance. Up close the surfaces get a little 'muddy' and 'chalky' at times. The rest of Museum L'Orangerie did not impress me that much. A lot of Renoir,  Cézanne, Derain and Guillaume. If you are in Paris for only a short stay and want to see the Impressionists, rather head for Museum D'Orsay instead!

William Bougerough, "The Virgin with angels".

William Bougerough is my favourite French academic painter! This work is on permanent display in Petit Palais, Paris.  It is impossible to convey the virtuosity of his brush marks in the illustration. It has the smoothness of Ingres, the radiance of Jacques-Louis David, and the sensuality of Caravaggio,  all at once! Superb! The 'kitsch value' also resonates with this 'closet Catholic' deep down... ;-)

"1900" Belle Epoque exhibition at Petit Palais, Paris.

Petit Palais in Paris is currently hosting the ORIGINAL 1900 Belle Epoque exhibition when Paris was at its height of 'artistic boom'! The divine Belle Epoque-style Petit Palais was originally built to host the 'Universal Exhibition' in 1900. Here are 2 installation views. The exhibition is filled with known gems by Rodin, Monet, Toulouse -Lautrec and the awesome (if somewhat underrated) William Bougerough.  There are also lesser known works on display which makes the exhibition even more fascinating! I kept on hearing the way actress Marion Cotillard pronounce the words "Belle Epoque" when describing her favorite period in the film 'Midnight in Paris' while walking through the exhibition space...

René Lalique facade at 40 Cours Albert, Paris.

This is truly 'Secret Paris'! Even most Parisians have never noticed the facade of '40 Cours Albert' close to the Grand Palace since the street is mainly used by motorists in a hurry and not pedestrians. The entrance to this building was designed by none other than René Lalique, the most well known glass maker of the Twentieth century!!! It was designed in 1911 to serve as his home, but then became a studio and showroom. What a find...

Adrian Ghenie in Museum Pompidou.

I had the incredible privilege to see the new Adrian Ghenie painting today in Museum Pompidou. I firmly believe that the young Romanian artist is the most virtuouso painter of his generation! His painting technique 'borrows' from diverse art historical forebears such as Rembrandt, Francis Bacon and Gerhard Richter. In his painting abstraction and representation seamlessly coexist. Utter respect!!!

'Adam apples'.

Words of wisdom... Don't ever enter the food section of Galeries Lafayette on an empty stomach!  I think I can safely say that I fully grasp how poor Adam must have felt in the garden of earthly delights. I think I might have 'downplayed' the issue somewhat... To be more clear, slow and painful self - mutation seems kinder to the 'self' than this buffet of ... (uhmn)... 'Adam apples'!  Magnifique!!!

The sacred and the profound.

Details of 'sacristy' stained glass windows.

I have had a few encounters with 'divinity' (as experienced through beauty) during my lifetime. The day I stood in front of Jan van Eyck 's "Ghent altarpiece" comes to mind. It is the moment when speech 'abandons' your body. Today was such a day... As I stood in the lesser known St-Etienne-du-Mont church admiring the Medieval stained glass inside the church from a distance, I suddenly became aware of a nun silently gesturing to me to follow her behind the closed door of the 'sacristy'. At first I thought she might be gesturing to someone behind me. Once I realised she was looking at me I followed her down a corridor without question. Without a single word being exchanged she let me into a space in the sacristy filled with several jaw dropping stained glass panels glowing like jewels against the light. The best part...I could view them up-close from less than a metre away!!! I spend the rest of the day contemplating over what just took place. Through her 'mundane act' she touched my life and made divinity tangible. It might well be her favorite 'party trick', but I choose to believe she sensed my soul.